Soundtrack: Pablo Casals Kol Nidrei
Two weeks ago (yes I'm behind, but with good reason that will be explained later) I spent the weekend in Kyoto with family. We all got together to enjoy the annual Hanami (花見)
or Sakura (櫻) Cherry Blossom viewing. The kanji for Hanami actually translates directly into "flower" (花) "viewing" (見). They are in bloom for about 2 week (depends on the weather of course) but Hanami tends to happen in 1 of 2 weekends bookending the blossom period.
My first day in Kytot was brief, I arrived late on the Shinkansen from Tokyo with one of my cousins from Tokyo. We went out to dinner at Al Camino (I know linking to myself is bad form, but I'm saving you from another gushing review). The next day we had a delightful breakfast, and spent pre-lunch time sightseeing.
The first stop was Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple (化野念仏寺). This is an ancient (9th century) cemetary, complete with bamboo forest and new "modern" cemetery attached. Created by Kukai (774-835), the founder of the Shingon Sect of Buddhism, it evolved to become a monastery for Amida Buddhism. In the 12th Century, Honen (法然), the founder of Pure Buddhism (or Jodo Shu) fully transformed it into a school. The large Buddha is from the Kamakura period (1183-1392), and the main temple was built in 1712.
It is incredibly beautiful, and I've attached some photos. Kyoto is a fantastic city, and this section, nestled in the mountains was only a few minutes car ride away from downtown, but it felt like it was worlds away.
There are about 8,000 stone Buddhas throughout the temple, many still being discovered scattered throughout the bamboo forest. The interesting thing about many of these stones is that Buddha gravestones are traditionally marked with the names of the deceased, but these bare no traces of any such markings.
Annually, on my Birthday actually, they have a 1,000 candle offering (Sento-kuyo) to these stone Buddha who are in honor of their possessing the spirits of the deceased. I'd love to get back and see this.
Next up: Ghi-ohji, a moss temple that was within walking distance of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji. This is a latter period temple (12th century). It reached it pinnacle of publicity when the poet Heiki Monogatari composed a story about the 2 sisters Shirabyoshi (singers/dancers) and their mother who all became nuns at Ghi-Ohji after the temple fell out of favor of the ruling lord of that area.
This tale was actually mirrored in a recent story of a Geisha, Chishoni, who became a nun to take care of Ghi-ohji after it had been untended for decades.
Next up, lunch in the Meditation Halls of Tenryu-ji, the head temple of Rinzai Zen Buddhism. Tenryu-ji is fantastically beautiful, and the cherry blossoms were an incredible addition.
The meditation hall is a new building (built last 20 years) and is separated from the main buildings by a sprawling pond. The hall has a private koi pond, with some truly monstrously sized Koi (black being the largest, with the white and orange koi being much smaller).
On to the festivities, we all enjoyed Tamano Hikari (the family brand) and went around introducing ourselves, and somehow I got conned into making the toast. It went well, but the art of the toast in English is very different than the Japanese method.
The food was fascinating, and a monk came to greet us, explain some of the history of the temple and the food. My understanding is that this food is designed to "eat to live" rather than the excess of "living to eat." The food is divided into 6 basic flavors: bitter, sour, sweet, salty, light and hot. Other disciplines are applied, such as the food is designed to be "light an flexible, clean and neat, conscientious and through." Needless to say, it was entirely vegetarian, and ingredients with strong odors were not included.
I found one mantra to describe their philosophy inscribed in english:
"First, let us reflect on out own work,
let us see whence this comes;
Secondly, let us reflect how imperfect our
virtue is, whether we deserve this offering;
Thirdly, what is most essential is to hold
our minds in control and be detached
from the various faults, greed, etc.
Fourthly, that this is taken as medicinal
is to keep our bodies in god health;
Fifthly, in order to accomplish the task of
enlightenment, we accept this food."
After this unforgettable lunch, we walked through the adjoining grounds of Tenryu-ji, past were my mother had a similar Hanami lunch with her relatives when she was a teenager. We walked along a neighboring river, crowded with boats viewing the sakura from the river.
I bid my farewells here, and caught the shinkansen back to Tokyo.
Monday, April 27, 2009
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Yakushima: Mononoke Mori
Soundtrack: Brahms Symphony No. 3 in F, Op. 90: III Poco Allegretto
My last day in Yakushima, I got to sleep in til 5:30.
Another spectacular meal (this time breakfast) at the ryokan. Japanese breakfasts have become my favorite in the world (thus far). Its a nice balance of food groups while still remaining light. A little egg, a little fish, miso soup, picked vegetables and some rice. Only thing that could possibly improve on this is to add some bacon.
I pick up a kilo of local tangerines for the trail and I catch my ride to the trailhead. The ride was our first sign of bad weather: our tiny car was being blown around on the narrow mountain roads, and the sheets of rain killed the visibility. To make matters worse, I’m not entirely prepared. I may have my rain jacket, but the Japanese hikers have full gators and rain pants (many with umbrellas too), and my pack is not even pretending to be waterproof.
I meet 3 fascinating grad students I buddy up with. 1 biked all the way down from Kyoto (took her a week) and the other 2 are visiting Yakushima for the first time. They all got to the onsen last night, and they actually remembered me from the Jomon Tsugi trail yesterday! Their midnight onsen trip means they are functioning on even less sleep then me. Impressive guys, and fantastic hike companions. I wouldn't have made it through some of the more dangerous washed out portions without their helping hands.
While beautiful, the trail turns treacherous very fast. If reading my father’s mountain medicine journals has taught me anything, I should have turned back. The trail turns into a river, and the river turns into a torrent. Getting down was very difficult, but I made it to my jetfoil just in time. I am soaking wet seated next to properly attired families with their children crawling around, but the hike was well worth it, and I’ve on the shink ride I finished Capote’s In Cold Blood and put a dent in Kafka by the Shore.
I grabbed a delicious Kagoshima Beef Bento box to eat on the train. I am constantly amazed by the quality of food everywhere I go here. Every city has some local specialty they are proud of, and as long as you have an open mind (and flexible palate) you can always get an amazing meal.
My last day in Yakushima, I got to sleep in til 5:30.
Another spectacular meal (this time breakfast) at the ryokan. Japanese breakfasts have become my favorite in the world (thus far). Its a nice balance of food groups while still remaining light. A little egg, a little fish, miso soup, picked vegetables and some rice. Only thing that could possibly improve on this is to add some bacon.
I pick up a kilo of local tangerines for the trail and I catch my ride to the trailhead. The ride was our first sign of bad weather: our tiny car was being blown around on the narrow mountain roads, and the sheets of rain killed the visibility. To make matters worse, I’m not entirely prepared. I may have my rain jacket, but the Japanese hikers have full gators and rain pants (many with umbrellas too), and my pack is not even pretending to be waterproof.
I meet 3 fascinating grad students I buddy up with. 1 biked all the way down from Kyoto (took her a week) and the other 2 are visiting Yakushima for the first time. They all got to the onsen last night, and they actually remembered me from the Jomon Tsugi trail yesterday! Their midnight onsen trip means they are functioning on even less sleep then me. Impressive guys, and fantastic hike companions. I wouldn't have made it through some of the more dangerous washed out portions without their helping hands.
While beautiful, the trail turns treacherous very fast. If reading my father’s mountain medicine journals has taught me anything, I should have turned back. The trail turns into a river, and the river turns into a torrent. Getting down was very difficult, but I made it to my jetfoil just in time. I am soaking wet seated next to properly attired families with their children crawling around, but the hike was well worth it, and I’ve on the shink ride I finished Capote’s In Cold Blood and put a dent in Kafka by the Shore.
I grabbed a delicious Kagoshima Beef Bento box to eat on the train. I am constantly amazed by the quality of food everywhere I go here. Every city has some local specialty they are proud of, and as long as you have an open mind (and flexible palate) you can always get an amazing meal.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Happy Birthday Brolai!
The Happiest of Birthday Wishes to the violiniest of the violinists, the mathematicianist of the mathematicians, the craziest of the crazed, the most adverturous of the adventurers, and the brotherliest of brothers: my Brolai.
Happy Birthday!
Happy Birthday!
Monday, April 13, 2009
Yakushima: Jomon Tsugi
Soundtrack: Elgar's Cello Concerto 1st Movement performed by Jacqueline du Pre
Second day in a row I’m up at 4am, I picked up my Bento Breakfast & lunch and I’m at the Bus Stop by 4:45. Its pitch black out, but the bus quickly fills up with fellow climbers. The trail head is packed full with breakfasters, so I hit the trail to beat the rush. After a quick jont through a cave, I follow the lumber railway up a ridge where I see the sunrise at 7. Truly stunning landscape, I try not to take too many photos. It was so beautiful that I could take a video of the entire hike and watch it over and over.
I leapfrog a few hikers before I hit an old ruin on the other side of the second suspension bridge. I scarf down my breakfast bento under the sakura. Some sort of archaeological dig is going on nearby. I recognize the tools and the markings from my paleontology days.
Once I reach the old growth trees, I realize that I can no longer avoid the final message of Mononoke Hime: life from death. I am surrounded by trees growing from the bodies of their ancestors.
Once I hit the end of the railroad tracks, the real climbing begins. Apparently, the prepared climbers come equipped gloves. My hands came away in working condition, but I see why they recommend gloves now...
The first major stop was the Wilson Stump, which is about the size of my apartment.
Jomon Tsugi, the main attraction, was about 2.5 km further up. By the size, they estimate it to be 7200 years old. A sample taken places it closer to 2150. I have to say, as striking as Jomon was, it had no context. The entire area around it has been dug up and re cultivated. I preferred the undisturbed sights on the ascent.
Even on the way down, it was difficult not to photograph everything. I made some friends on the way up, and we went of to Yakuland, passing hordes of monkeys on the roadside, staring us down with their beady red eyes. I got back to the ryokan around 5, where the incredible hosts had arranged a car for me to get to the tomorrow’s trail head. They also had prepared a beautiful dinner with a flying fish expertly prepared.
 |
| From Yakushima |
 |
| From Yakushima |
I leapfrog a few hikers before I hit an old ruin on the other side of the second suspension bridge. I scarf down my breakfast bento under the sakura. Some sort of archaeological dig is going on nearby. I recognize the tools and the markings from my paleontology days.
Once I reach the old growth trees, I realize that I can no longer avoid the final message of Mononoke Hime: life from death. I am surrounded by trees growing from the bodies of their ancestors.
Once I hit the end of the railroad tracks, the real climbing begins. Apparently, the prepared climbers come equipped gloves. My hands came away in working condition, but I see why they recommend gloves now...
 |
| From Yakushima |
The first major stop was the Wilson Stump, which is about the size of my apartment.
 |
| From Yakushima |
Jomon Tsugi, the main attraction, was about 2.5 km further up. By the size, they estimate it to be 7200 years old. A sample taken places it closer to 2150. I have to say, as striking as Jomon was, it had no context. The entire area around it has been dug up and re cultivated. I preferred the undisturbed sights on the ascent.
 |
| From Yakushima |
Even on the way down, it was difficult not to photograph everything. I made some friends on the way up, and we went of to Yakuland, passing hordes of monkeys on the roadside, staring us down with their beady red eyes. I got back to the ryokan around 5, where the incredible hosts had arranged a car for me to get to the tomorrow’s trail head. They also had prepared a beautiful dinner with a flying fish expertly prepared.
 |
| From Yakushima |
Saturday, April 11, 2009
To Yakushima
Soundtrack: Mos Def's Quiet Dog
I love the Japanese train system. Whether it is the inter-Tokyo subways and trams, or the nationwide Shinkansen, they all are run with the superb efficiency, respect and professionalism I am being totally spoiled by everywhere I go in Japan. (A short aside, I am writing this from a Starbucks with waiters… yes, real waiters.) So after a very pleasant and sleepy jot down to Hakata, I switch trains to Kagoshima. It is here I run into a nice family with a child (I’d say he was about 6) who stares and intones at me “GAIKOKUJIN.” His parents and I laugh and exchange pleasantries. Whenever I see a Shinkansen now, I think of Richard “Hamster” Hammond’s thoughts when he saw one “Is it supposed to look like that?”
A few hours later, I’m enjoying a beautiful day in Kagoshima. I even doff my jacket and sweater to absorb some of that delicious Vitamin D. I enjoy some local eats, as I wait for my jetfoil to Yakushima. Japan celebrates local foods from all of its towns. While Yakushima and Kagoshima share the similar agriculture, Kagoshima does have a reputation for excellent dairy products. I take plenty of photos of Sakura-jima, but it isn’t quite clear enough to see the steam rising from the summit.
The jetfoil is full of climbers for Yakushima who are all discussing other local peaks. We pass a few of the mountains they have submitted, and oceanic crags that would make awesome fortresses. We catch the sunset as we dock at Yakushima, which is much more built up then I was expecting.
Unfortunately, I arrived too late for the buses, and taxis are few and far between. A nice man in a van volunteers a ride. While this would be sketchy as hell is any other country, I’m totally comfortable hitching in Japan. It’s only a 10 minute ride to my ryokan by the sea, but the driver and I discuss my plans for my weekend. He told me 2 nights is not enough. He is right, so I’ve packed my days to the hilt. In addition to Jomon Tsuigi and Shiratani Unsuikyo, he recommended the onsen which comes with the tide, and a waterfall on the other side of the island. In the summer, you can also catch the sea turtles laying their eggs. Maybe next time, but now I’m here to hike!
A few hours later, I’m enjoying a beautiful day in Kagoshima. I even doff my jacket and sweater to absorb some of that delicious Vitamin D. I enjoy some local eats, as I wait for my jetfoil to Yakushima. Japan celebrates local foods from all of its towns. While Yakushima and Kagoshima share the similar agriculture, Kagoshima does have a reputation for excellent dairy products. I take plenty of photos of Sakura-jima, but it isn’t quite clear enough to see the steam rising from the summit.
The jetfoil is full of climbers for Yakushima who are all discussing other local peaks. We pass a few of the mountains they have submitted, and oceanic crags that would make awesome fortresses. We catch the sunset as we dock at Yakushima, which is much more built up then I was expecting.
Unfortunately, I arrived too late for the buses, and taxis are few and far between. A nice man in a van volunteers a ride. While this would be sketchy as hell is any other country, I’m totally comfortable hitching in Japan. It’s only a 10 minute ride to my ryokan by the sea, but the driver and I discuss my plans for my weekend. He told me 2 nights is not enough. He is right, so I’ve packed my days to the hilt. In addition to Jomon Tsuigi and Shiratani Unsuikyo, he recommended the onsen which comes with the tide, and a waterfall on the other side of the island. In the summer, you can also catch the sea turtles laying their eggs. Maybe next time, but now I’m here to hike!
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Best Pizza in Japan (Yet): Al Camino
Soundtrack: Bud Powell's Un Poco Loco
I was in Kyoto this past weekend for 花見 (hanami, or Cherry Blossom viewing but more on that later) and my first night there, we went to the best Pizza restaurant I've been to in Japan: Al Camino.
I have enjoyed some fantastic meals while living in Japan. These have obviously included regional specialties particular to areas of the Islands, but more surprisingly, some foreign cuisine re-interpreted with delicious results. I use re-interpreted in a very lose sense. The first step seems to be the studying and mastering of the foreign cuisine, followed by subtle additions. It's hard to describe, but as with many of the imports I've encountered here, they all are refocused with a particularly powerful lens, making the end result intense and fascinating. I digress, I started this entry to talk about Al Camino!
I wrote a few pages dissecting the wine we had and the pizza and even evaluating the decore, but I'll save you the trouble and just share the essentials. While the baking process was traditional Italian (wood burned super heated clay stove) and the chef was actually imported from Italy for his incredible skill, the ingredients were not so traditional. He mixed familiar favorites (pepperoni & olive) with Japanese style (eggs & mayonnaise) with his own preferences (selected squash and prosciutto). The result was a pizza that held the cheese together, was thicker than the New York style but no where near the massive Chicago.
The be all and end all being this: best pizza in Japan.
I was in Kyoto this past weekend for 花見 (hanami, or Cherry Blossom viewing but more on that later) and my first night there, we went to the best Pizza restaurant I've been to in Japan: Al Camino.
I have enjoyed some fantastic meals while living in Japan. These have obviously included regional specialties particular to areas of the Islands, but more surprisingly, some foreign cuisine re-interpreted with delicious results. I use re-interpreted in a very lose sense. The first step seems to be the studying and mastering of the foreign cuisine, followed by subtle additions. It's hard to describe, but as with many of the imports I've encountered here, they all are refocused with a particularly powerful lens, making the end result intense and fascinating. I digress, I started this entry to talk about Al Camino!
I wrote a few pages dissecting the wine we had and the pizza and even evaluating the decore, but I'll save you the trouble and just share the essentials. While the baking process was traditional Italian (wood burned super heated clay stove) and the chef was actually imported from Italy for his incredible skill, the ingredients were not so traditional. He mixed familiar favorites (pepperoni & olive) with Japanese style (eggs & mayonnaise) with his own preferences (selected squash and prosciutto). The result was a pizza that held the cheese together, was thicker than the New York style but no where near the massive Chicago.
The be all and end all being this: best pizza in Japan.
Wednesday, April 8, 2009
Monday, April 6, 2009
LED Equalizer Shirt
Soundtrack: Tomoyasu Hotei's Howling (From the album Electric Samurai)Living in Tokyo, and working for an Internet Company, I would be remiss to not mention the crazy items I come across everyday.
Case in point: the Equalizer LED T-Shirt.
Yes, it claims to actually take sound in and turn it out in the shape of a wearable LED Equalizer.
No, I have not seen it in the wild but I imagine it's only a matter of time. Not like its ridiculously expensive either, ¥3,800, which is about $40USD. Not bad for the craziest T-Shirt I've ever seen.
I will try and restrain myself from blogging exclusively about gadgets or other crazy Japanese stuff, but I couldn't help myself this time.
Check it out here, complete with indecipherable English translation: Rakuten Borderless
Thursday, April 2, 2009
Japanese Website Profile: Mixi
Soundtrack: Boy Named Sue
Question 1: What is Mixi?
Mixi is Japan's #1 Social Networking Site, boasting an 80% market share and over 10 million users.
Question 2: What makes it unique?
While microblogging sites like Twitter, and now the new Facebook UI enable 140 characters or less, Mixi emphasizes full blogs but in a social setting. Purportedly, the purpose of this is to purportedly connect people with common interests.
Question 3: How are the handling privacy policy stuff?
Like Facebook, they backed off from some recent heavy handed Privacy policy revisions, but they have banned their users from dating.
They have a persistent "invitation" only policy, which is typical of beta sites, but seems highly unnecessary for such a broadly used service.
Question 1: What is Mixi?
Mixi is Japan's #1 Social Networking Site, boasting an 80% market share and over 10 million users.
Question 2: What makes it unique?
While microblogging sites like Twitter, and now the new Facebook UI enable 140 characters or less, Mixi emphasizes full blogs but in a social setting. Purportedly, the purpose of this is to purportedly connect people with common interests.
Question 3: How are the handling privacy policy stuff?
Like Facebook, they backed off from some recent heavy handed Privacy policy revisions, but they have banned their users from dating.
They have a persistent "invitation" only policy, which is typical of beta sites, but seems highly unnecessary for such a broadly used service.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Bacon Meal
Soundtrack: Rolling Stone's Tumbling Dice
Inspired by my friend DickLi, I've put together the Ultimate Bacon Meal:
Beverage: Bacon Vodka
Appetizers: Baconnaise Dipping Sauce with Bacon to Dip
Salad: Baconnaise Caesar Salad with Bacos
Soup: Leek, Potato, Bacon Soup
Main Course: Bacon Explosion
Sorbet: Bacon Sorbet
Desert: Bacon Chocolate
The perfect movie to enjoy while cooking? Babe: Pig in the City
Perhaps the lack of good bacon in Tokyo is getting to me...
Inspired by my friend DickLi, I've put together the Ultimate Bacon Meal:
Beverage: Bacon Vodka
Appetizers: Baconnaise Dipping Sauce with Bacon to Dip
Salad: Baconnaise Caesar Salad with Bacos
Soup: Leek, Potato, Bacon Soup
Main Course: Bacon Explosion
Sorbet: Bacon Sorbet
Desert: Bacon Chocolate
The perfect movie to enjoy while cooking? Babe: Pig in the City
Perhaps the lack of good bacon in Tokyo is getting to me...
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