Yakushima: Mononoke Mori

Soundtrack: Brahms Symphony No. 3 in F, Op. 90: III Poco Allegretto
My last day in Yakushima, I got to sleep in til 5:30.
Another spectacular meal (this time breakfast) at the ryokan. Japanese breakfasts have become my favorite in the world (thus far). Its a nice balance of food groups while still remaining light. A little egg, a little fish, miso soup, picked vegetables and some rice. Only thing that could possibly improve on this is to add some bacon.
I pick up a kilo of local tangerines for the trail and I catch my ride to the trailhead. The ride was our first sign of bad weather: our tiny car was being blown around on the narrow mountain roads, and the sheets of rain killed the visibility. To make matters worse, I’m not entirely prepared. I may have my rain jacket, but the Japanese hikers have full gators and rain pants (many with umbrellas too), and my pack is not even pretending to be waterproof.
I meet 3 fascinating grad students I buddy up with. 1 biked all the way down from Kyoto (took her a week) and the other 2 are visiting Yakushima for the first time. They all got to the onsen last night, and they actually remembered me from the Jomon Tsugi trail yesterday! Their midnight onsen trip means they are functioning on even less sleep then me. Impressive guys, and fantastic hike companions. I wouldn't have made it through some of the more dangerous washed out portions without their helping hands.
While beautiful, the trail turns treacherous very fast. If reading my father’s mountain medicine journals has taught me anything, I should have turned back. The trail turns into a river, and the river turns into a torrent. Getting down was very difficult, but I made it to my jetfoil just in time. I am soaking wet seated next to properly attired families with their children crawling around, but the hike was well worth it, and I’ve on the shink ride I finished Capote’s In Cold Blood and put a dent in Kafka by the Shore.
I grabbed a delicious Kagoshima Beef Bento box to eat on the train. I am constantly amazed by the quality of food everywhere I go here. Every city has some local specialty they are proud of, and as long as you have an open mind (and flexible palate) you can always get an amazing meal.